Centering New Wheels and Boosting Your Antique's Voltage: Auto Clinic

A: They should be fine. As to whether the rims fit correctly, that's another Auto Clinic letter in itself. Centering is only one issue. The overall width and offset are also important because they affect handling and steering. The overall diameter of the tire needs to be at least close to the original to avoid changes in gearing that may affect performance. And gross changes in diameter and overall rotating mass may affect ABS performance. Just making sure the replacement wheels physically fit inside the wheel wells without clearance issues to the fenders, suspension and brakes is only a start. You'll need to consult someone who has specific data about your rims and your car.

Most modern cars use a centering ring that sticks out 10mm to 12mm from the hub, specifically to make sure the wheel is centered within a few thousandths of an inch when it's installed. Not all cars have this ring, however. When you put the wheels on the car, be sure that there is no foreign matter, such as rust or dirt, on the hub or wheel mating surface. This might mean wirebrushing the surface or at least carefully cleaning it with a rag. I prefer to smear a thin coating of antiseize over the surface to prevent any corrosion from sneaking in--but then, I was raised in the Midwest where they pour salt over the road almost every day. Hang the wheel by the studs and fingertighten the top lug nut, then a bottom stud, followed by the rest. Spin the wheel a couple of times to let it settle, then fingertighten all the lugs again. Spin the rim to check that it's centered--the chamfer on the lug nuts will tend to pull the rim toward its center. Unless, of course, you run the first lug nut home with an air wrench instead of tightening all of them gradually.

I'll say again what I've always maintained--never tighten lug nuts with an air wrench, even if you use torque sticks. Torque sticks are short extensions to go between the wrench and the socket, and they're supposed to limit the torque applied to the lug nut. I find them inaccurate and inconsistent. Instead, use this procedure: As above, fingertighten all the lug nuts, then wiggle the rim around and fingertighten again. Next, use a torque wrench to tighten in a crisscross pattern to half the final torque, and then again to full torque. This will keep the wheel centered, prevent warping of the brake discs, and allow you to remove the wheel again on some rainy night to change a flat with the lug wrench in the trunk instead of an air wrench or a 4-ft. cheater.